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Chamonix

Useful Tips for Traveling: Skimo Racing and Ski Touring in Europe

October 16, 2016 By Stano Faban 1 Comment

Racing in Europe is awesome. Hopefully this post helps smooth out some of the bumps for a first time visitor!
Racing in Europe is awesome. Hopefully this post helps smooth out some of the bumps for a first time visitor!
For North Americans, skimo racing in Europe is not only a humbling and awesome sporting experience but also an adventure into different cultures, customs and rules. While most of that is very pleasant, there are times that the language barriers make it challenging to figure things out.
In this article, we are going to share some tips and our general observations to help you navigate the foreign waters. They are mostly based on Eric’s experience from racing most of the 2014/15 World Cup circuit while staying in Chamonix for few months, with Stano adding a couple of useful bits as well (after all he grew up in Europe).

Registering for races

Make sure to research sign-up opening and deadline at least 5-6 months ahead of the event as many races (specifically Pierra Menta, Mezzalama and Patrouille de Glaciers) tend to sell out in a matter of few weeks. In general, the registration fees (calculated per day) are comparable to North American events but obviously vary from race to race, and the value of services depends on the organizers but usually it’s pretty high. The current system uses a central registrations system through the Grande Course website which should be the first stop to investigate.
Make sure you have all your information sorted before reg including your National and ISMF license.
Another thing to keep in mind, when signing up, are potential requirements which don’t exist in North America. From special gear (rope, ice axe, etc) to doctor’s note proving you are healthy to race, make sure to study each race’s rules. Doctor’s notes are much easier to get in North America ahead of time than at the last minute in a foreign country. The French Alpine Federation FFME has a form that can be downloaded and filled out.
» Here’s the 2017 Skimo World Cup calendar

Cities to fly into for popular race locations

Given the travel distances to most European races and convenient flight connections from US and Canada we believe these are some of the best cities to fly into:
Geneva, Switzerland:
– very central location with Western Europe
– 1.5h to Chamonix
– 2h to Pierra Menta location
Milan, Italy:
– still quite central location
– 3-4h to 2017 World Champ venues
– 3-4h to most other races
Turin, Italy:
– more difficult with connections but it’s close to many cool races in France and Italy
Zurich and Bern, Switzerland:
– still in the center of things
Barcelona, Spain (Catalonia):
– close to Andorra and Pyrenees
– many cool races within 3-4h, including some 2017 World Cups
– great city to hang out in
Paris, France and Rome, Italy:
– a bit further from the mountains but easy to get connections to
– sightseeing at its best
Below is a Google map with the above cities and some most important/popular races. If you don’t see it then click here to display it on Google Maps.

 

Trains in Europe are rad and get you all over the place!
Trains in Europe are rad and get you all over the place!

Transportation – Cars and Trains/Shuttles

For standard ski touring and climbing trips, depending on trains and shuttles is fine. For travelling to races a car is necessary as most are at out-of-the-way locations.
Many car rental companies require a deposit for twice the rental price of the car be put on your card so be sure you have enough of a limit to allow this. Also, most rental cars will have standard transmission unless you pay significantly extra for an automatic. There is nothing like learning to drive a stick in a rental car parking lot in a small town in France 🙂
Also, it is important to be explicit that you require winter tires as driving to some of the ski areas can be treacherous – tiny roads, lots of snow, steep hills. Tire chains can be purchased relatively cheap so better just to buy them rather than rent from the car company. Even if it feels like summer in the valley in which you rent, it may be VERY wintery up at the race venue!
Be prepared as tolls on major freeways in France, Italy, and elsewhere can be significant – it is definitely best to carpool if possible. If you are driving in Switzerland, Germany and other countries you will require an annual or multi-month toll pass sticker (buy it at any bigger gas station).
Places are closer than they are in North America but still require some planning and travel but it’s worth it. One of Eric’s favourite races of his “Euro” season was a last second decision to go to Poland for a teams race. Chamonix to Poland is 1500km (1000 miles) of driving!

The best places to stay have skiing right out the back door.
The best places to stay have skiing right out the back door.

Housing and Accommodation

Staying long-term can be tricky if you don’t have a connection with a place to stay. The best chance to find an apartment is if you have a friend who can help.
When travelling to races, ask the race organizers where to stay – they usually have designated athletes lodging with board. This tends to be a simpler option if you are unfamiliar with the area and it allows you to focus on your goals.
Hotels can be expensive and in smaller towns and are a little different than what we expect from North American hotels – usually they are smaller and run fairly minimally, you won’t find a Holiday Inn at Transcavello.

Lifts are all over the place and go to amazing places. Mt. Gele, Switzerland.
Lifts are all over the place and go to amazing places. Mt. Gele, Switzerland.

Equipment

If you are going to Europe specifically to race, just bring skinny skis. Most of the time I was on-piste or in the high mountains on stable days. I never used my fat skis once in the four months I was in Europe – that being said, I was there to race and climb, not ski pow or the resorts.
Bring one pair of race skis and one pair of training skis. Mid-winter, the skinny skins were nice but when spring rolled around and things started to melt-freeze regularly, it was key to have wider ones.
Things can get boney so don’t be surprised if you break some equipment. Luckily, most of the equipment manufacturers are located in the Alps so if you break a boot or binding, they are usually pretty helpful. I had very good luck with both Plum and Gignoux promptly fixing broken equipment. The Plum factory in particular was a treat to visit as they refurbished my bindings free of charge on the spot.
Bring sufficient skins (or be prepared to purchase) as a season full of racing will seriously take life out of skins. Ski crampons are critical for spring touring as well.
Crevasses in the alps are serious, much more like the Rockies – actually pretty scary. We carried crevasse rescue equipment most of the time and I was happy to have it. Picking up a short glacier rope when you arrive is relatively cheap (Technique Extreme in Chamonix, View Au Campeur elsewhere in France). For climbing, we usually used a 60m half rope for easier routes and also had a 60m single for harder stuff. This really depends on trip goals (skiing vs. climbing).
I think an axe/tool hybrid like the Petzl Sum’tec is a good option. A light axe is nice for snow but it was handy to have the pick of a tool on the occasion that we encountered a bit of ice. We had tools as well for real climbing and that was worth it.
It’s usually pretty warm in central Europe. I had a down jacket that I used rarely and a thin synthetic puffy that I used ALL the time. A sleeveless shirt to wear under the skin suit was also invaluable in warm weather races.

Be prepared for the occasional off day. Guidebooks and maps can be easily found in most outdoor stores. The kindle was awesome to have.
Be prepared for the occasional off day. Guidebooks and maps can be easily found in most outdoor stores. The kindle was awesome to have.

Power

Check all your appliances and see if you need a power transformer or just a converter. Everything I brought with me required just a basic plug converter except for my boot dryer which I didn’t check because everything else worked fine. I plugged it in and it went into turbo drive and then started smoking… 🙂

Food

Gels, energy food, etc. are expensive in Europe so bring as much as you can from home. Stuff your ski boots with gels. Bring specialty foods (chia, hemp hearts,…) if you eat them as they are harder to a get hold of in many places.
Remember, grocery stores in Europe are smaller and operate in much more limited hours. Most small towns won’t have a superstore type grocery but just a small family run store. There is frequently a lunch/afternooon break when the store is closed and it can be almost impossible to find groceries in a small town on a Sunday. Plan ahead or be prepared to be eating bread and Nutella for dinner 🙂

Most resorts are pretty uphill friendly. Ask a local but it is much less restrictive than North America.
Most resorts are pretty uphill friendly. Ask a local but it is much less restrictive than North America.

Training

European resorts are much more tolerant of uphill skiers on-piste than resorts in North America but still rules can be quite variable. Some resorts have specific off-piste access routes while others allow skinning anywhere on-piste at any time. For example, Grand Montets in Chamonix allows you to skin up the ski-out run outside of operating hours and has an off-piste access route for during hours.
In the spring however, the access route was melted out so we skinned up the run. Patrollers were rare but warned us that we were breaking the rules skinning during operating hours but never explicitly asked us to ski down. Verbier on the other hand was a free for all. The best strategy is probably to talk with a local racer or check in at the local touring store to find out the ideal place to train.

Huts are all over the place and much more well equipped! Argentiere, France.
Huts are all over the place and much more well equipped! Argentiere, France.

Other useful tips

A data plan was super handy – finding hotels and race venues we used GPS and email a ton. It is easy to buy a cheap phone when you arrive and can be nice for in-country calls or emergencies but may not work everywhere. I’ll spend the extra money on a worldwide data plan next time. (Note: even a really good data plan may not work everywhere – ahem – Andorra…)
Wifi is much less reliable. Cafes frequently have wifi but expect to buy something and it’s pretty slow. Finding free, fast wifi to do work-related things was much more difficult than in North America. Uploading batches of photos was nearly impossible. Hotels frequently advertise wifi but only offer it in the lobby (and it is slow). McDonald’s was the most reliable.
Make sure you know the local emergency number. We were the first on scene of a climbing accident and were only able to call the rescue because I had randomly downloaded an app with their number on it to my phone. Without that, we would have had no idea who to call.
I joked that if I ever was to get injured, it should be while I was on this trip because it was the most well insured I’ve ever been in my life. I had travel insurance through my employer, accident/rescue insurance through the American Alpine Club, and because I was racing in Switzerland, I had to purchase rescue service/insurance from REGA. All of this was relatively painless with a bit of research.
Lift tickets work differently and usually better. If you are uploading only once to mid station, it is likely considerably less expensive than a day pass. Downloading only tickets are even less. It’s not like spending $120 just to think about riding a lift at a resort in North America.

What are your tips and observations?

Share your Euro tricks with us in the comments below so we can all have a smoother trip the next time we go 🙂
Thank you!

Filed Under: Skimo Racing, Training, Tricks & Tips Tagged With: Chamonix, Eric Carter, Europe, Travel, Verbier

Nina Silitch interview: Skimo racing mom gets the first ever ski mountaineering World Cup win for North America

April 30, 2012 By Stano Faban 2 Comments

On April 5th I congratulated Nina (via her blog) on a great racing season and asked whether she would consider an interview for Skintrack. A day later she replied: “I’d be happy to…”.

Nina Silitch sprinting.
Nina in the zone. (Photo by Stephan Mantler, with permission from Nina's blog.)
However, at that point I didn’t realize there was one more World Cup weekend left on the calendar and that it featured a sprint race – Nina’s specialty racing format.
Fast forward nine days and on April 14th Nina Silitch became the first North American to win a ski mountaineering World Cup race! I mean, a North American won a skimo World Cup race! Wow, in all my “calculations” I couldn’t see this coming for at least another two-three years.
It is a great accomplishment and we obviously gonna talk about it. But we are also going to talk about more as Nina is a mom of two and lives now in Chamonix, France.
Q: You just won your first World Cup race. Was it a beautiful surprise or you felt throughout the season it was reachable? 
For me the sprint is something I really love. Yes it was a beautiful surprise, but I did believe that I was capable of a podium in the World Cup Sprint.
Q: Can you describe the skimo sprint racing format.
The Sprint format encompasses all aspects of ski mountaineering into a very short race. It was started to help bring more spectators to the sport as when it is in the mountains it is harder for people to watch.
There is a goal for skimo to be an Olympic sport one day, and the sprint is an event that can draw a crowd. It is the same format as the World Cup cross country sprints that have now become a newer discipline.
Skimo sprint Tromso, Norway.
Leading her semi-final round in Tromso, Norway. (Photo from Nina's blog.)
It progresses through a qualification round, followed by 6 person heats of quarter-finals, semis and finals. The course is anywhere from 3.5 min to 4.5 min long and can range from 50-90 m in elevation gain.
The start is on skis with skins going straight to a series of kick turns, followed by a transition to a boot-pack (skis on the pack) then another skinning section, followed by a descent that encompasses both alpine gates, on and off piste and also skating.
Athletes must not only be quick on their feet but also very efficient in their transitions. It allows them to specialize in something, as a sprinter will train differently than a distance athlete.
Q: Is it your favorite skimo racing discipline? Are you naturally a good sprinter or you started to focus on this event only recently?
It’s funny because I love the sprint and all the concentration and focus it involves, but I also love longer races of 4-8 hrs.
I realized I had talent in the Sprint race when they first started and I definitely tried to hone my skills a bit. I always have started a little too fast in races but this is actually good for sprints.
Q: How many World Cup skimo racing seasons do you now have under your belt?
I did my first world cup in 2009 at the Valerette in Switzerland. I remember loosing a ski on a boot-pack and miraculously launching for it and catching it before it went 300 meters down a big slope.
I have consistently raced the World Cup circuit the last 3 seasons, with the last 2 seasons 2011, 2012 not missing one race. This year I placed 8th overall in the World Cup in a pool of very strong women, where the level grows and grows each year.
Q: Do you ski during summer (no snow months) as well or you rely on honing fitness through other activities?
I like the change of seasons and take a break from skiing in the summer. The earliest I would find snow would be end of October, though, one time I did ski in July just for fun when it snowed in Chamonix.
I enjoy trail running, road and mt biking, yoga and pilates. I do some roller skiing but not until the autumn.
Q: What are your three favorite skimo races? And why?
The Pierra Menta 4 day stage race – it is truly the heart of ski mountaineering. It is the hardest race I think as each day you have to get up and do it again. But the challenge, the camaraderie and the energy from the crowds keep me going.
Crowds on the 3rd stage at Pierra Menta 2012. (Photo from Nina's blog.)
The sprint race in Norway – because I felt really good there, in the zone.  Not many times in my life has that happened. I also love Norway. Tromso is a spectacular place.
French national Sprint race – it was held in my home town of Chamonix. It was an amazing feeling to be racing in my own town, with friends and locals cheering, my husband and boys on the side lines too under the lights at night. I took 2nd here behind world champion L. Roux.
Q: Your background is in downhill and cross-country skiing. Why ski mountaineering now?
I grew up in New England, learning to ski in Vermont and Maine. I was an alpine skier when I was younger and really did not like it when my parents dragged me out cross-country skiing. I found it boring.
I did a couple years of alpine racing at age 13-14 at Carrabasset Valley Ski Academy in Maine, however, after ACL knee injury when I was 14 I decided to try my hand at Nordic racing. I was inspired by a teacher and coach, also a former US cross country team member.
It turned out I loved it and continued skiing in college for a few years, though, not on the high level team.  I was not so into the high competitiveness in skiing and also got quite involved in rock and ice climbing as well as telemark skiing.
Nina Silitch at Pierra Menta
Nina with her partner, Valentine Fabre, climbing the Grand Mont at Pierra Menta 2012. (Photo by Xtof Aubonnet, from Nina's blog.)
I did not even know what ski mountaineering skis were until 2001 when we moved to Chamonix and in 2002 I tried my first pair when I joined my husband (High-Alpine Mountain Guides) on haute route trip.
I did my first ski mountaineering uphill race in 2005 after my first son was born in 2004. I loved the challenge of getting up the mountain and the fun ambience after the race with a nice pasta meal.
Eventually I learned that there were more than just uphill races. It really was not until we moved back to Chamonix after living in Switzerland that I really discovered the sport.
The first race I did my youngest was about 10 months old, I was still breast feeding. But I managed to go do the race and get back for the evening feed.
I grew to love all that skimo encompasses: the challenge of the climbs, the thrill of the descents, the technical aspects of the climbing. It combined endurance, skill, power and the beauty of mountains.
Q: There is quite a difference between the number of men and women athletes taking part in ski mountaineering racing. Is this only at the faster level or is it similar at the local races throughout Europe?
I think like most endurance sports – trail running or mt. biking – there are less women in theses sports. There are less women in general but I am pleased to see the pool of women growing in the sport.
I encourage women to get out and try it, not by shy. Start with an uphill, like I did.
Q: Why do you think more women don’t race? Because I don’t think it is a “manly sport” as all the girls that are racing are great looking. 😉
In Europe it is not a new sport, but rooted in the Alps. Yet, still the pool of women is much smaller than men.
In North America it is a newer sport but it’s great to see it growing like mt biking grew in the 90’s.
I think that sometimes the technical aspects of the sport can be intimidating but also the price of the equipment is an issue.
Q: Do you have any advice for the skimo community (organizers, novices, ski partners…) that could help to raise this number?
I am all for empowering women in sport, especially this sport.
Holding Women specific ski-mo clinics, camps or workshops is a great way to start. Races can give ½ price entries to women or even have uphill climbs that have free entries for women.
Offer community slide shows or presentations by athletes who race at a higher level, and include women to speak at these events.
Q: You obviously spend lots of time training but you have two young sons. How do you balance it?
Nina Silitch with sons at Pierra Menta 2012.
Nina Silitch with her sons at Pierra Menta 2012. (From Nina's blog.)
It is definitely a balancing act to train and race at a high level and be a mother.
In the winter I actually train less than I would in the fall when I am really doing more volume training.
During competition season this year the volume is lower as more time is spent racing and recovering. As an “older” athlete I have learned that I need more recovery time and the importance of listening to what I need.
With that said there are certain times in the competition season where the volume can be up as high as 20hrs, but mostly 12-15hrs not including racing.
This year, I raced 20 races – 7 world cups, 3 grande courses, 3 national championships as well as some smaller local races.
My boys do join me on hikes, bike rides and skis. I try to include them as much as possible in my training, and sometimes I have no choice so I make it work.  My older son is passionate about skiing. This year he tried skinning with Nordic skis and a narrow pair of skins.
Q: You live in Chamonix, a town with rich history of steepest skiing. Is that the reason?
We moved to Chamonix about 10 years ago when my husband completed his international mountain guides certification UIAGM. He was one of the first Americans to hold this certification. For a mountain guide, Chamonix is really the ideal place to work, as you can come home at night.
Q: Dreams for the future?
I have a dream of continuing to live a balanced lifestyle that integrates sports in the mountains, good health and wellness combined with family and friends.
I hope the sport of ski mountaineering continues to grow. I am proud to be a part of that growth and would like to see more women in the sport, more athletes in general as well as one day it become an Olympic sport.
I helped start the ski mountaineering club in Chamonix 3 years ago with only 5 members. This year I have taken over the role of the President and our membership has grown to almost 70 members. This is a great step in the right direction.
Q: Any advice for the racing folks back on the NA continent?
Keep helping the sport grow, especially with the younger athletes. It is with the youth that we can really start to develop the skimo programs. Offer camps and mentorship programs in schools and ski clubs/partnerships with ski shops.
Keep bringing on more racers that can excel against the Europeans who have been doing it for so long.

Thank you

Thank you Nina for sharing your experiences, dreams and inspiration with us.
» Nina Silitch blog

Filed Under: People (Interviews), Skimo Racing Tagged With: Chamonix, Nina Silitch, Pierra Menta, skimo World Cup

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